What are slings used for in climbing reddit. They are also light for alpine stuff.

What are slings used for in climbing reddit But, I figure in the cost of replacing the slings on used cams. 1 metre sling doubled on itself through the ring on my harness going to the lower zig zag carabiner. There have been zero situations in my climbing career where I found myself wishing for the extendable sling feature. 35 votes, 23 comments. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. A lot of times you are extending to protect the rope from a sharp edge, so you wouldn't want to use cord in that case. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. For a PAS, I highly recommend Petzl's Connect Adjust. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. 6 Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Here in Italy in Mountain courses they teach to only use kevlar cords for this purpose due to its higher melting point. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. I would buy (and have bought) used cams, carabiners, stoppers, climbing shoes. What kind of rope do I have to use? is a 5mm rope good enough? I wanted to use a 6 mm as recommended here but it wasn't available in my local climbing shop so I bought 4m of 5mm one. Climbing slings use pound force ratings as climbers are generally using these slings in dynamic (non-static) systems. Although you get looks, for steep climbs where you're leaving tat you can use climbing tape to make a stiff "dogbone" and otherwise have it as a shorter version of an extended 60cm trad draw. I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. You’ll also probably hear different opinions (including some along the lines of “the companies just want A full setup for JUST sport climbing, where everything is bolted is as follows: harness, rope, full rack, belay device, a PAS of some sort, and an anchor build with the slings and biners. Considering this gear has never been used and has been stored properly, is it safe to use? Upon visual inspection, they appear brand new with absolutely no signs of fraying, fluffing or wear. . Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic Personally, I would not but a used rope, slings, harness or helmet. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. I know the responsible thing is to destroy the gear to make sure nobody ever uses it, but it feels super wasteful! I already made a nice rope doormat a few years back, and slings/or anything loop shaped can be used to organise quickdraws, biners etc. Like Van Wilder said, the redundancy you are looking for is in the protection on the wall. Depends on what you're doing. The use of a sling to pair anchors is very common in Trad, rigging routes for novice students or if you find yourself in a situation you can't use the given bolts such as if one in a pair is damaged. There are some times when I've lucked out and the cam slings were in like new condition and have used them for a while. Will deploy these while aerial pruning around my properties, and recreational tree climbing. I'm curious what biners are commonly used. I want to be able to use it for read in the future but also use it for tying off and cleaning lead routes. Keep slack out of your static anchors. A dogbone keeps the biners from spinning around. If you're on a budget, maybe the long knotted sling would have been more cost effective but both do the job, and there some real conveniences to the PAS. What is the ideal sling length? The length of the sling determines what you can use it for when climbing. Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. I do hate ovals for racking nuts, I think ovals increase the chance of dropping them. I'd reserve the cord for cordolettes (although I usually use 7mm). This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally Really depends on the scenario. Very overwhelmed on where to start. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. Only use it in this configuration for ascent. Am I doing it right? Should I use rope instead of slings? Would it be okay with just one sling after two carabiners? How would you built it in this scenario? Sorry for not having better pics of placements. I generally carry 8 alpines, will bring up to 12 for particularly long pitches/wandering climbs. That's all been replaced by dynema slings. So you're safely within that range. If I place a sling, it likely has one of my carabiners on it that is labeled. Tying the slings into any configuration with weaken the already less than ideal materials. There's a certain simplicity to that and I have come to like it. Should you go for nylon or Dyneema? Is a daisy chain the same as a runner? And what are they actually for? In this guide, we break down the three Buying my first sling I've never bought a sling before and I wanted some expert input on the matter. I've recently acquired some 10 to 15-year-old climbing slings and quickdraws. Lyon round slings. I use two different ones because #1, the setup I describe isn't sold that way (it's 3 brands) and because that way I can get the best type of sling (mammut contact!!!), a super small biner where I dont need a large one (bolt/gear end) and a good compromise of size/weight on the rope end. Even then, I prefer a draw that's flexible. It’s apples and oranges. If I need to extend or the route wanders, I clip an alpine draw into the cam’s sling (so the racking biner is just chilling next to it). If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. Standing around for 10min trying to untie a frozen, weighted dyneema sling is bad style. Sometimes it's actually cheaper to buy sport draws and cannibalize the carabiners. So you need to know exactly what length fits your requirements. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. It’s “weather” if you count all of mountaineering, slip-and-falls in rock climbing specifically, and you can’t even count rappelling as “while climbing” because it’s not while climbing. I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. See full list on rei. A real Via ferrata kit isn't really necessary, but I'd spend a couple bucks on better stuff. Most common applications are alpine draws, slinging e. Am I doing invisible damage to this sling? It seems like the logic is that it could be heated and damaged in this application. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A HunchoBandoOG • What size slings and how many each do you like having set aside for trad anchors? Or do you prefer cordelette? And why. What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. My friend always clips a quickdraw to the sling regardless of the route. They are also light for alpine stuff. For sport climbing (especially routes at your limit), quickdraws are the way to go. The resultant anchor point is non-redundant. Primary Climbing Area: Northeast USA, The Gunks Current Lead Range: up to 5. I know a decent number of people that use 24cm slings to make longer and cheap project draws. Things don't just break unless they are being used wrong! IMO, use alpine draws for trad climbing. There are very few US manufactured carabiners (SMC, most Omega Pacific, Black Diamond) and the prices and quality don't actually change significantly. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? So I was thinking, I end up usually having to extend my placements due to the wandering nature of the climbing area I usually climb at and if I place 12 pieces, I end up just adding a sling to 12 pieces. Taking it slow, learning a lot. slings are much more resistant to abrasion and cutting. 24kn sling. From an instructor point of view, we have to replace soft items (slings, ropes, extenders) after a maximum of 7 years, or if damaged / showing signs of wear. I replace my draw slings every 5 years, the biners will last until they look worn (expect 10 years of fair use at least). There's a very specific danger when you shorten it by clipping an inner loop, but as long as you only clip it in a maximum of two spots, it should be safe. Apr 3, 2025 · Buying used climbing gear? Here are the red flags to look for and tips for ensuring the gear you buy is safe. It is tied in a loop It's time to retire some of my climbing gear. Here’s how to choose the right one. It requires more rope than a girth hitch, but can be done with a climbing rope which Multipitch I always clove hitch the rope. It also makes for an easy way to to extend my VDiff climbing says: " Don’t use a sling for anything except a prusik after using it once as a prusik. For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. In addition, the only setting I really need to be able to adjust the length of it is at belays on multipitches, and a clove hitched rope can be adjusted Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. But the point is that the range doesn't matter much because climbing isn't about static loads, it's about dynamic loads during falls. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. You’re not gaining too much weight I almost only use dyneema sewn runners. I looked at the BD Neutrinos but they seem a bit on the small side. Is longer better, more versatile? What lengths and how many slings do you carry on your saddle? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Depending on how much your climbing. The purpose of the sling is to be kind of all around. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. In any event, OPs method isn't unsafe but not really best practice. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. As others have said. Also old harnesses are great for weighted deadhangs/pullups. Bowline can be done with either an open loop (bowline on a bight) or a standing end. " Is this a good rule? I have been using a dyneema sling as a third hand backup to go hands free while rapping/cleaning routes. These can be wrapped around sections of rock, hitched to other pieces of equipment, or tied directly to a tensioned line using a Prusik style knot. They tend to be more versatile and durable than Definitely not gunna buy a drill to set up bolts and stuff so I’m planning to top rope using rocks/trees. But it's like $15 (extra vs sling) you'll live to tell the tale. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. It's an insurance thing. Edit: ok got it 5 mm is not enough for normal nylon cord :-) thank you! They’re a little trickier to use (the triggers are different), and the Friends have rigid stems, but clean them, lube them, resling them (if they take slings), and file the grooves back into place and they’re good to go. Hi! During the past weekend we've done some multiplepitch and while rappelling I've noticed that a member of another party was using a standard 16mm nylon sling for the friction hitch for the back up. I carry about 8-10 at the Gunks. Climbing slings are a staple in every climber’s gear bag—but with so many options, it’s easy to get confused. Come to think of it why is so much climbing gear made of static material? Alot of falling happens in climbing : / Also, now that the patent for keylock carabiners is up, there are a lot more fat sling solid gate keylock carabiners coming out at great prices. Just curious. In my opinion, it’s just more convenient to have the flexibility of the full alpine. sling or closed cordlette). Typically sling lengths can measure between 60 to 180 cm. Sport draws are too rigid for use on nut placements and don't help that much on cam placements unless the line you climb is very straight. I'd say it's a fine purchase, OP, particularly for sport climbing. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. It's super simple to use, and really easy and fast to adjust and reset. This review includes 12 of the best and most popular choices available today, which can be used for extending protection to reduce rope drag, building and equalizing anchors, and even as threads or slung Apr 16, 2025 · Climbing Slings Demystified: What to Use and When to Use It Not all slings are created equal. what do you guys think about racking up with the cams and slings already attached? Would it make it a bit more efficient? Or would the limited racking space from cam and draw and the cluster I use some normal climbing slings that are 30cm for dangley normal draws and they are great My slings all have one carabiner and I use cams racking biner for the other side. They may be used as anchors, to extend an anchor to reduce rope drag, in anchor equalization, or to climb a rope. In terms of rope efficiency, it can be done with fairly short slings. I was a bit concerned about this and started to discuss with another buddy Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. You can also grab the dogbone. I have used slings to extend the reach like this for a long time. The home of Climbing on reddit. Climbing slings and carabiners rated for 15-20kN. Honestly, it's a gimmick and unnecessarily complicates an already simple solution. Mammut has made a new sling that's many times stronger and more abrasion-proof by making it out of twisted Dyneema wrapped in a sheath, with no connection seam Slings seem cheap enough that I don't label them. rock horns for protection, or to connect you to an anchor. Most instructional videos seem to use slings, however as I read more into it this can apparently be a death trap, as a static material sling (which most are) can break with fall factor and weight of not that much. I still use the odd 120 cm nylon slings here and there, as it's a little bit dynamic and it's easier to untie knots. Buy some 60cm slings and make your own alpine draws. Hey all, I'm looking into a making a few alpine draws as I slowly get into trad climbing. g. Mixed articles from climbing forums lead me to believe that Quad anchor material Hi I would like to build a quad anchor for some sport multi pitch. Any other tips on ways to upcycle The rope is simply to short to absorb any meaningful energy (which is why you shouldn't use that method either when climbing via ferrata - but use slings custom made for via ferrata). I started climbing before the dedicated PAS gizmos (loops sewn together) became a thing, and people used their daisy chains all the time for single pitch, instead of fiddling with slings. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your From what I remember of the route, a double length sling will probably leave you with a fair amount of slack. Why are slings more vulnerable to Climbing gear has been designed for climbing. And yes we are scared of falling. 305 votes, 96 comments. com That’s why every complete set of climbing equipment includes a wide variety of slings in various lengths and materials. Ropes, I generally expect between 6 months to 2 years. If I’m climbing a route that doesn’t really wander, I’ll clip directly into the racking carabiner on the cam’s sling. Ropes are designed so that the energy from an average dynamic fall is reduced to less than 10kN. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. The rubber retainer on the rope-side biner keeps the biner from rotating. I never use shoulder slings, I think they’re annoying. For the areas where a tree is close, I’m going to keep it simple and use girth hitched slings around the trees, then two locking carabiners, and run the rope through there. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. At this point the rope is usually very fluffy, stiff and often contains a core shot somewhere in the middle of the rope. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. 1 is ok, 2 is super good, 3 is allso super good. Been a long time since I used 60 cm nylon slings for the last time. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. 24kn is life Support. They are better for alpine draws because of their reduced bulk and flexibility. Girth hitch only allows you to use a closed loop (e. You can play around with the climbing force calculator here. Maybe that's to save weight? Tell me what you think! And if you want to mention the sling you use, feel free! Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. [1] Uses In 1957 Jan I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. And I like having everything nicely organized, shoulder slings just feel like they cause me to faff around too much. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. From what I've read, soft climbing gear can deteriorate over time. What would be a first good sling and why? I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long Sling (climbing) explained A sling is an item of climbing equipment consisting of a tied or sewn loop of webbing. Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. 1. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. The earlier on you can get over the fear that something will break the quicker you will be able to learn safe techniques and enjoy climbing.